Hem or seam for sewed articles.



J. G. LEWIS.

HEM 0R SEAM FOR SEWED ARTICLES.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 18. 1909.

Patented Oct. 5, 1915.

inseam.

an snares PATEN oivrica.

JOHN G. LEWIS, OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI.

T 0 all whom it may concern:

, Be it knownfthat 1, JOHN G. Lnwrs, a citizen of the United States, residing at the city of St. Louis, in the State of Missouri,

have invented a certain new and useful Hem My, invention relates to a hem or seam for sewed articles to be made by a sewing .machine. One of its objects is to provide a seam wherein every loop laid by the needle may penetrate the goods and be appropriately keyed, as by engagement of said loops with a second. keying thread, or by the inter-chaining of 'the penetrant loops beyond their points of emergence from the work, so

.as to form ,goods-holding stitches, and

' points of stitch-emergence is not materially wherein for every penetrant loop of needle thread so formed there may be provided an overcast loop, or bight, of needle thread,

givingto every stitch both an overcast loop and a goods-engaging keyed-loop structure, for an overseaming and a holding eifect.

Another object of my invention is so to relatethe penetrant and overcast loops of needle thread that each overcast loop, springing from the points of entrance of two successive stitches into the goods, has its bend o crest definitely positioned by laying said bend about the emergent portion of the lastlaid one of said stitches for retention in such position by the running connections between points of stitch emergence for the advantages, among others. of certainty of binding effect, retention of the overcast loop against shifting. and uniformity of appearance.

Another object of my invention is'to provide a seam of the character described, wherein the course of. and linear extent of, the keying thread structure that makes the running connections between the successive afiected by the provision of the over-seaming loops or bights. so that where a second thread is usedto key the penetrant loops of needle thread. the amount of the second thread used may be minimized and so that no slack is needed in the keying thread. Thus in a lock stitch seam. soformed, un-

S pecifieation of Letters Patent.

duly frequent replenishment of the bobbin is avoided and it is not necessary that any take-up action be performed on the bobbin thread. i V

A further object of my invention is to provide a blind stitch felling seam'i. e. a seam in which an edge of a superimposed layer is secured to a subjacent base layer by stitches entering and emerging from the same side of the work and concealed on the fair side of the work oppositeto that on which the stitching is d0ne,wherein the display of thread on the 'stitched side of the work, 0n.which the stitching is done,

Patented Get. 5, 11915. A plication filed June 18, 1909. Serial No. 502,878. I/

may be minimized, only one thread being caused to cross the edge and the keying thread-structure (whichin a two-thread seam may be of different quality or color) being laid substantially parallel withan d below the level of the edge of the superimposed layer, so that-if exposed at all its exposure may be local to the base layer of fabric, and so that by appropriate relation of the edge line to the row of stitching said portion ofthe thread lying upon the base layer may be partially or wholly concealedbeneath the superimposed edge.

In the drawings wherein. for purposes of full disclosure of my invention, I have illustrated both felling and padding seams, and both lock and chain stitch formations, em-

bodying my invention. Figure 1 is a plan View showing a lock stitch felling seam securing the edge of a superimposed layer of material to a subjacent base layer, wherein a the penetrant loops are inclined to the edge Fig. 2 shows a form of stitch of the same type as Fig. l but with the needle piercing the superimposed layer at a small or very acute angle to the edge, and the keying-connectionslaid wholly beneath the edge. Fig. 3 shows a padding seam. that is to say a seam sewing together face to face two. superimposed lavers of material. form of felling stitch embodying my invention and employing a single thread concatenated to form the well known chain stitch. seam employing two threads concatenated, as to keying arrangement, after the fashion of the well known double-thread chain stitch. Fig. 6 is a section on line 6-6 of Fig. 1. 1

In Figs. 1 and 2, 10 indicates a base layer Fig. 5 shows in plan view a felling Fig. 4 shows a of goods and 11 a superimposed layer,.prefel-ably under some conditions having a turned under edge, 19 laid upon the base layer to be felled thereon. In the illustrated views the superimposed layer is proaided by a folding back upon itself the base layer, as may be done in a trousers bottom, for example.

The folded edge 19 of the superimposed layer is secured to the base layer by a single row of stitches, comprising a series of keyed penetrant loops, said stitches passing into and out of (but preferably not through) the work as a whole on the same side thereof. Each stitch penetrates through the folded edge portion of the superimposed material and into and out of the proximate surface of the base layer,.preferably without showing through to the opposite side of the base layer, so that the stitching will be blind on the fair side of the work. As shown in each of said views, the needle thread 12 is passed, upon each reciprocation of the needle, into the superimposed goods at 14: and through the superimposed goods into the main layer, and out of themain layer at 15 under or adjacent to the folded edge, all on the same side of the work, each said penetrant loop being keyed for retention in suitable fashion according to the character of stitch formation employed. As shown in Fig. 6 the point of needle emergence from the base layer may be so located with respect to the edge that in the finished product the edge wholly overlies the points of emergence, and the keying connections, of the penetrant loops.

Each said penetrant loop preferably lies on a line inclined, when viewed in plan, to the edge of the superimposed layer. precise angle of inclination may be varied according to the character ofthe work to be done, an angle of about 15, degrees for in-.

stance, giving a very narrow seam and minimized display of thread on the superimposed material, such as is very desirable on certain lining work and the like, but necessarily requiring considerable nicety. in the handling of the work to insure a proper relation of the edge of the superimposed ma. terial to the very narrow range of operation of the needle: and an angle of larger degree, as 45 degrees, giving a somewhat greater width to the range of needle opera-- tion and satisfactorily fulfilling the require-- ments for other lines of felling in clothing manufacture.

In each of the forms of lock stitch felling seam shown (Figsl, 2 and 6) the penetrant loops of needle thread all engage and are keyed by a bobbin thread 13, the thread locks, or points of interloopage of the needle and bobbin threads, being preferably drawn somewhat into the goods to an extent appropriately determined by adjustment of the usual thread tension. As far as the en keyed by a second thread 1 The gagement of the overcast loops, to be described, is'concerned, however, the location of thethread lock, whether at the surface of the work or buried within the work is unimportant, the series of keyed penetrant loops in any event providing stitches passing into and oilt of the goods, needle thread running connections between points of stitch-entrance, andkeying connections between points of stitch-emergence.

In Fig. 5 the penetrant 100 s are shown as in the usual manner of a double thread chain stitch and in Fig. v4; the needle thread loops are interchained so that the stitch-keying chain-connections extend from one point of needle emergence to the next In each felling seam shown, the keying connections, whether chain loops or bobbin thread, lie along the surface of one layer only of the material and do not cross the edge; and in the con' structions specifically shown, wherein the penetrant loops enter the superimposed ma ,terial back from the edge and penetrate diagonally toward the edge, emerging from the stitched side of the base layer under or adjacent to the edge of the superimposed layer, it is the surface of the base layer whereon the keying connections are exposed. In such construction the keying thread may be wholly or partially concealed as in Fig. 2,-the concealing effect being aided by a slight rolling over of the folded edge of the superimposed layer incidentally to the tension on'the overcast thread in the machine stitching ofthe seam, and the rolling may be accentuated by any subsequent pressing operation, the more effectively to cover the bobbin thread. It will be observed in this x Supplementing the series of keyed penetrant loops of needle thread, which effect the direct interconnection of the superimposed layer with the base layer in each form of felling seam shown, I provide a series of bights or loops in the needle-thread running connections, each springing from two points of entrance of successive stitches into the surface of the work, passing over and across- 'the edge of the superimposed layer, and havlng its crest or bend positioned on the base layer to embrace the point of emergence of the last made one of said stitches from the work. The overcast bight, so located, engages the emergent portion of the stitch, the crest or bend of the bight underlying, and being positioned by, the running a connections between that point .of stitch emergence and those next adjacent thereto. Thus, referring to Fig. 1 for example, as-

suming the needle to have made its penetrant stroke in laying the first penetrant loop there shown at the right hand end of the figure and to have interlocked with the look ing thread and to have withdrawn from the work, the bight of the needle thread 12 is cast over to position partially to encompass the point of emergence on the base layer of the next succeeding stitch; and when the next stitch is formed the needle, carrying a loop of needle thread into and out of the clothand up through the area circumscribed by the crest in the overcast loop or bight, receives the bobbin thread so that the latter is laid over both limbs of the overcast loop, and when the stitch is set, the bobbin thread, keying the penetrant loop, and generally drawn down through the overcast loop retains the overcast loop in its position embracing the point where the stitch emerges from the surface of the base layer. Such relation of the overcast bights or loops to the keyed penetrant loops does not materially disturb the location or linear extent of the keying thread structure when the tensions are properly regulated, and the setting of the stitch may be performed by the usual takeup action on the needle thread only without necessitating any takeup action on the bobbin thread. This positive location of the bend of each overcast loop restrains the bend against displacement under vary-. ing strains upon the seam incident to use; makes for perfect uniformity inappearance and enhances a satisfactory binding effect of the overcast loops. upon the edge of the superimposed layer. It will be observed that the structure described gives to the seam an effective penetrant loop for immediate connection of the layers of goods for every stroke of the needle. It willfurther be observed that the inclination of the stitches to the edge of the goods locates the points of entrance of the needle into the superimposed layer close to the edge in proportion to the length of effective engage-' ment or bite of the penetrant loops into the work, so that the limbs of the overcast loops of the needle thread, which are the only thread portions crossing the edge and displayed on the surface of the superimposed material are comparatively short, inconspicuous,'and neatly uniform. By the arrangement shown in Fig. 2 a substantial minimum of exposure is attained, and it is in this fashion that commercial concealed affect felling may very"advantageously be one.

In Fig. 3 I have illustrated the same form of stitch as that shown in Fig. 1 applied to the connecting of two layers face toface, as in padding. The same advantages of conserving the bobbin thread to avoid unduly frequent replenishment; uniformity of appearance, definite positioning of the overcast loops and other advantages are retained but manifestly any concealment of the stitching is not possible nor, in the manufacture of clothing, is there any need for such stitching to be concealed upon the ,stitclied side of the work, as the padding dle thread running connections, forming parts of two adjoining overcast loops, and meeting at a point of entrance of'a penetrant loop, form the apex.

In all of the forms of hems or seams which are shown in the drawings the penetrant loop of the needle thread forms part of a keyed stitch -structure that passes through an overcast loop or bight of the needle thread, having a terminal point in the same stitch and its other terminal point in the preceding stitch.

'VVhile I have herein described in some detail particular embodiments of my invention in divers forms of stitch it will be apparent that changes in detail of stitch formation might be made without departure from the spirit of my invention and within the scope of the appended claims.

Having described my invention what I claim is a 1. A hem or seam for sewed articles, comprising a plurality of layers of textile or similar material and a row of stitclies connecting said layers, said stitches entering and'emerging on the same side of the work,

consisting of a series of keyed penetrant loop structures, and a series of overcast loops or bights, overcast on the surface of the Work from the points of entrance of two successive stitches, the emergent portion of one only of said two successive stitches passing through and engaging the overcast loop formed between it and the preceding stitch, and said overcast loops formed in the same thread as the penetrant loops.

2. A hem or seam for sewed articles, comprising a plurality of layers of textile or similar material and thread uniting said layers of material comprising two series of loops formed in a single thread, alternate loops, constituting one said series being keyed to form stitches penetrating and emerging from the same surface of the work, and the intervening loops constituting the other series being overcast on the surface of the work each from terminal points at the points of penetration of two successive stitches and each said overcast loop embraciIig the emergent thread at the point of emergence of the last made one @of said the superimposed goods and engaging the stitches and free from-the penetrant loops of emergent portion of one only of said stitches, all other stitches of the series. at its point of emergence from the base 3. A hem or seam for sewed articles comlayer, and the emergent portion 'of each 5 prising aplurality of layers of textile or stitch so engagedpassing through the over- 70 similar material and a row of stitches'each cast loop formed between said stitch and I entering and emerging from the same surthat next preceding it.

face of the 'work, said row of stitches con- 7 A hem or seam for sewed articles comsisting of a needle thread and a second prising a base layer of textile or similar ma 10 thread, the needle thread'of each stitch peneterial and a superimposed layer presenting 75 trating the material once only and keying an edge upon the base layer and a row of with the second thread, and said needle blindfelling stitches uniting said base layer thread also forming'for each stitch an overand superimposed layer, consisting of a secast loop 'embracingthe emergent thread ries of keyed penetrant loop-structures enat the point of emergence of a succeeding tering the superimposed layer and emerging g stitch; a from the base layer on the same side of the 4. A hem or seam for sewed articles comwork and having a keying connection run prising a plurality of-layers of textile or ning along the base layer-of material subsimilar material and a row of stitchesmnitstantially parallel with and close to the edge ing said layers of material entering and of the superimposed layer, and a series ofemerging from the same surface of the work, overcast loops formed in the needle thread ali said row of stitches consisting of a needle ternating with said penetrant loops and each I thread'and a second thread, said needle overcast from the points ofentrance of two thread forming two alternating series of successive stitches with its bender crest em- I I 25 loops, one series consisting of penetrant bracing the emergent thread at the point of loops and the other series consisting of overemergence of one of said stitches and freecast loops, each of the overcast loops having, from engagement with the penetrant loops its terminal points at the points of entrance of all other stitches of the series. of successive stitches and its bend or crest 8. A hem or seam forsewed articles oo'm- I 30 embracing the emergent thread at the point prising a baselayer of textileor similarmaof emergence of the last made of said terial and a superimposed layer presentingstitches, and said second thread engaging an edge; of a row of felling stitches securand keying all of the penetrant loops and ing said edge to the base layer, eachstitch. overlying and retaining all of the overcast being passed, at an inclination to the edge, 35 loops. f through the superimposed layer and into 5. A hem or seam for sewed articles comand out of the base layer to enter and emerge rising a main layer of textile or similar maon the same stitched side of the work and teria l and one or more superimposed layers each stitch comprising a keyed penetrant secured to said main layer by a row of loop; and a series of overcast loops formed 40-stitches entering and emerging from difi'erin the needle thread, eachof said overcast ent points on the same side of the goods comloops springing from the points of entrance posed of a needle thread and a second of two succeedingstitches and embracing thread, the emergent'portion of each stitch the emergent thread at the point of emerengaging with aloop of the needle thread gence of one of said stitches. and free from 45 brought forward from the preceding stitch, the penetrantloops of all otherstitches of the' said needle thread having, in each stitch, .a series. r I single penetrant loop engaging all of the 9. Aseam for sewed articles comprising a layers of material and being keyed by the plurality of layers of textile or similar matesecond thread. I I rial and a row of blind stitches connecting .50 6. A hem or seam for sewed articles comsaid layers, coinprising a needle thread and 116 prising a base layer of fabric, a superima second thread, said needle thread having posed layer, presenting. an edge upon the alternating penetrant and overcast loops base layerand a row of stitches felling said formed therein, the penetrant loops engage edge to said base layer, consisting oija series ing the second thread to be keyed thereby of keyed penetrant thread loops, each-said and to form therewith stitches entering and 130 I stitch entering and emerging from the same emerging from thelsame side of thejwork,

I surface 01' the work and penetrating through and each overcast loop extending from I g the superimposed layer from face to.facel points of entrance of two successive stitches Y I thereof and into and out of the same suraround the emergent thread at the point of I face of the base layer emerging'adjacent to "emergence of the second of. said stitches un the edge of the superimposed layer, and a der said secondkeyin thread. series of overcast loops formed in the same 10. A blind stitch fe ling seam-comprising thread as the penetrant loop each overcast a main layer oifabricfa superimposed layer 1 upon the surface of the work from the points presenting an edge on said main la er, and of entrance to two successive stitches I intg thread extending in overcast loops in asina I gle zig-zag course between points upon the In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set upper surface of the superimposed layer my hand and aflixed my seal in the presence 0 near the edge to points upon the main layer of the two subscribing Witnesses.

near the ed 'e, the remainder of the thread being formzd into loops penetrating said JOHN L layers and keyed,'independently of the over- Witnesses:

cast loops, with the keying connections ly- ELIZABETH BAILEY, ing-along and beneath the edge. E. E. HUFFMAN. 

